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by Cassandra Koslen

Eddie’s packs more punch than just pizza

SENTINEL NEWS SERVICE

“I just try to do everything a little bit different,” says Ed Wiszowaty, owner of Eddie’s Pizza.   “Otherwise, what’s the point?”

When Ed first arrived on the Portland food scene in the early 1990s, he was following in his family’s footsteps.  Born of Chicago pizza restaurateurs, Ed introduced his own style of pie by way of a cart in Skidmore Market.

At first, he was unsatisfied.  The bottom crusts of his creations failed to achieve full crispiness in time with the melting mozzarella, leaving customers with a pile of soft cheese and dough.  But a stone oven — how pizza is typically made — is too heavy to lug around in a cart. 

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Taverns revamp after smoking ban

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Let’s face it: Portland is a foodie city.  Even a good drunk desires a solid meal, no matter if the drop ceiling is falling in the dive around the corner.

Your bartender can be tattooed in all the wrong places with a voice like a broken combine, so long as those russet tots come fresh out of the fryer.  The steer that died for your burger ought to have lived a decent life, and a local cheddar should grace what’s between that made-fresh-this-morning bun.

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North Portland's Kokiyo Teriyaki introduces short ribs

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ADVERTISER UPDATE
The beef short rib is a tasty cut of bone-in meat.  Popular wherever cows are a prevalent food source, this fatty delicacy is especially good when slathered in teriyaki and hot sauce.

Located near the chuck, forward of the belly and south of the midline on the cow, the short rib, or 'flanken rib' as an old style butcher would say, refers to the last three little ribs and strip of meat on the animal.  The thin, Korean, or kalbi, cut is tender enough to be barbequed, and cooks fast. 

Kokiyo Teriyaki, at 8537 N Lombard St., is right in the heart of things, and chock full of meat.  Upon arrival, one cannot help but notice there is a border of cocks along the walls – that’s roosters to you – and the immediate smell of garlic and ginger.  Booths are filled with happy customers, some waiting for their take-out, others already enjoying a hot, simple dinner.  The interior is immaculately clean and neat, the tables covered in warm yellow clothes to match brightly painted walls. 

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