Let’s face it: Portland is a foodie city.  Even a good drunk desires a solid meal, no matter if the drop ceiling is falling in the dive around the corner.

Your bartender can be tattooed in all the wrong places with a voice like a broken combine, so long as those russet tots come fresh out of the fryer.  The steer that died for your burger ought to have lived a decent life, and a local cheddar should grace what’s between that made-fresh-this-morning bun.

After hearing a rumor that bars along North Lombard Street are taking a second look at their menus to attract extra revenue in light of this year's new smoking ban, we decided to check it out.  

Opponents of the ban had bemoaned that bars would lose customers and aesthetic.  Supporters screamed louder about cancer, and the positives of getting a drink without going home stinking like a vodka-soaked ashtray.  

When the Day of Change finally came, many balked, many cheered, many more shrugged their shoulders and went outside, much as they might have before.

And we found the bars to be doing just the same, only better.  

Dareck Atwood, the Twilight Room’s new chef, loves breakfast so much he has a tattoo of fried eggs on his arm.  Combine that with an NFL package and the neighborhood staple of 60 years is a bumping brunch spot Sunday mornings.

“I’ve never heard anybody talk about an omelet like they talk about his,” says Ayni Smith, bartender.  

She and Atwood developed the menu together, which includes not just eggs and toast, but biscuits in sausage gravy, chicken-fried steak, and breakfast burritos.  Nothing is over $9, and building your own is encouraged.  Vegetarian items are available, just ask.

Lunch is waiting just across the way, at Portsmouth Pizza and Pub.  A new kitchen and chef, Kathleen Roberts, have revitalized the original thick crust pizza with hand-tossed house dough that’s cooked on stone. 

Roberts likes to experiment.  There’s a cilantro-lime based Thai pizza, a cornbread-dough Mexican pie, and the popular BBQ chicken slice, complete with red onions and bacon.

“Everybody loves the crust,” Roberts remarks with pride.  “I try to stick with things that are good and just add on.”

The slices are gigantic and take-out is available.  But what’s not to like about a room full of pinball and pool with a wall-length mural of the St. Johns Bridge?

Closer to the John is the Sundown Pub, once a dank hole that no sane person would stare down, and now a clean, welcoming tavern blessed by an energetic lifelong cook.

“I’m a little bit of a rebel,” says Wydra Orr, co-owner and chef.  What she means is her portions are very large, incredibly affordable (entrees are $8.50), completely made on the premises and available until last call—that is, providing nothing sells out.  

Her menu is small and constantly changing.  There’s vegan and vegetarian items, such as dill pickle soup, plus she has a smoker for foods like ribs and rack of lamb.  Recently, she offered a steak sandwich stuffed with mashed potatoes, gravy, bacon and cheddar. 

And there’s always Darcy’s.  For breakfast, the “Darcy’s Cure” is a pile of potatoes covered in green peppers, mushrooms, sausage, melted cheese and salsa, or country sausage gravy, topped with three eggs.  

“We’re probably one of the best restaurants on Lombard to eat brunch at right now,” says Al Hughes, manager.  He describes his weekend breakfast waitress as “kick ass.” 

“We have a lot of returning clientele,” he continues, attributing the success of Darcy’s to consistent food and great service.  “You know you’re going to get a good meal at a great price.” 

Bravo.

Twilight Room, 5242 N Lombard St.,  (503) 283-5091.  Open at 10 a.m. every day.  Grill closes at 11 p.m., fried foods until 1:30 a.m.

Portsmouth Pub and Pizza, 5262 N Lombard St., (503) 289-4644,
portsmouthpizzapub.com.  Open Sunday through Tuesday 2 p.m.-12:30 a.m., Wednesday through Saturday 2 p.m.-1:30 a.m.  Food until 9 p.m. most nights, midnight Thursday through Saturday.

Sundown Pub, 5903 N Lombard St., (503) 283-4200, sundownpub.com 
Open noon to 2:15 a.m. daily.  Always serving food.

Darcy’s Restaurant and Bar, 4804 N Lombard St., (503) 595-0073.  
Open 8 a.m.-2:30 a.m. daily.  Food until 8 p.m. weekdays, 9 p.m. weekends.