ADVERTISER SPOTLIGHT~ Cornelius Swart
When Andrew Chung took over ownership of Kokiyo Teriyaki in downtown St. Johns, he passed up larger business opportunities just so he could be a part of what he saw as an up-and-coming neighborhood.

“We looked at a larger [restaurant for sale] in Vancouver, Washington,” said Chung, who moved to Portland with his wife and three children from Salem this year.  In Salem, Chung owned a large Mediterranean-style restaurant called the Arbor Cafe.

“When we saw this [restaurant] we saw a lot of promise and potential. This neighborhood is sort of like the Pearl was 15 to 20 years ago. It’s one of the hidden gems of Portland.”

Chung estimates that the neighborhood “teriyaki place” has been in operation for 14 years, offering a mainstay of flavorful charbroiled chicken, pork, beef, and shrimp dishes, as well as bentos, dumplings, noodles, and other fast and inexpensive Asian eats. 

Since Chung took over in February of this year he’s made a few minor menu changes including the planned addition of salads and Korean BBQ short ribs. “But the sauce hasn’t changed,” Chung assures.

Chung say’s he’s been warmly greeted by the neighbors, including local attorney Michael Peterson and St. Johns Booster’s President Gary Boehm. On a recent afternoon visit, local St. Johns branch librarians Nancy Arvesen and Sherry Swain were enjoying the new brown rice option with their meals.

“It’s hard to find diabetes-friendly food [such as brown rice] in the neighborhood,” says Swain, who’s been at the neighborhood library for five years. 

Arvesen notes that the brown rice is a welcome healthy alternative.  “St. Johns is catching on to health food,” says Arvesen.

Chung notes Kokiyo also offers more traditional Japanese fare such as katsu, a charbroiled chicken in Japanese panko breading that is deep-fried and served with Japanese steak sauce and Worcestershire sauce. 

“Another signature dish is the hot and spicy chicken,” says Chung. The dish, which can be prepared for any meat, lives up to its name, but doesn’t overdo it. “It’s potent enough.  You have to come prepared to sweat.”

What’s the secret to the sauces? Says Chung, “Customer service is the key ingredient to any success.”

Kokiyo Teriyaki, 8537 N Lombard St., (503) 283-3434, Mon-Sat 11am-8pm.